01
01 / Knits
Flat seam
Front sides face each other; an even stitch runs on the back at the specified allowance — the allowance follows fabric weight and stretch.
05 / SewingShantou · China
Seven seams that decide how a pyjama wears.
A seam allowance is not a detail. It is the difference between a nightgown that glides and one that scratches — and between a wash that holds shape and one that does not.
Craft 05Sewing floor · seam libraryKKVVSS
Seam library
Each entry is a construction, not a stitch: it fixes the allowance, the fold direction and the topstitch distance, which is what the factory actually repeats.
The constructions we specify most.
0102
02 / Clean edge
Topstitched lap seam
The raw edge is pressed back by the allowance, then placed and topstitched 0.1 cm from the fold so the line reads crisp from the outside.
03
03 / Overlock finish
Pique seam
Two parts overlap with the lower layer 0.8 cm proud, turned up, stitched 0.1 cm from the edge and overlocked for a durable inside.
04
04 / Denim logic
Flat fell seam
The same overlap as the pique seam but folded and stitched twice, giving a fully enclosed, very strong seam for heavy wovens.
05
05 / Sheer fabrics
French seam
Stitch 0.5 cm, trim to 0.3 cm, turn the parts face to face and stitch again — every raw edge disappears, which sheer and satin panels require.
06
06 / Gathering
Tucked seam
The allowance is folded and stitched to control fullness at cuffs and yokes, keeping gathers even without elastic.
07
07 / Finish
Hemming
A turned and stitched hem with the allowance matched to the drape of the fabric — narrow on silk, deeper on flannel.
Next step
Send the style. We will return a seam spec.
A photo of the inside of a sample tells us more than a description. We will match the construction and quote it per piece.